Hang with me here: My worlds are multiplying before my eyes. It's wonderful, and strange, to recognize that I've created little lives, so separate from one another, across the world, containing unique people, who have never met anyone from my other lives. My Sulay friends have never met, and probably never will never meet, my … Continue reading Multiverse
(I apologize for not taking photos in the bazaar - I chickened out because I felt stupid/guilty for looking like a tourist. But for you all, next time I will overcome this embarrassment.) "Bazaar" is a Kurdish word, did you know that? It's not solely Kurdish, it's Persian and also used in Turkey, but if … Continue reading The Bazaar
I was able to ask a taksi driver, "bachinda?" (how much?), and understand the answer (chwar hizar - 4,000 dinar). I would say that's a successful outing! Other useful taxi phrases: ira = here (ira bash - here's good.) rast = straight cha = four pensch = five (yep, definitely an indo-european language) hizar = … Continue reading New Vocab and Tips
Taxis don't have seat-belts.Kurds are both maniacal and very polite drivers. They'll accelerate super fast, weave in and out of cars, honk with gusto, but also slow waaaay down for speed bumps, and they yield for any car which is trying to merge into their lane.Taxis usually cost about 3,000 - 4,000 dinar (2.5-3ish dollars), but if … Continue reading Factoids
Where to begin?! This was the most fascinating birthday I've ever had. There was no birthday cake, or party hats, or indeed any sort of party. No old friends, favorite foods, or the birthday song. But damn was it awesome. I started the day out strong by waking at 3am. Glad to see my friend … Continue reading Happy Birthday to Me! (a tale of tea, hospitality, and lots of walking)
More tidbits about my experience so far: b'ser chao: sure, ok (literally means "on my eye") The main thing I'd heard about Kurds is that they are incredibly friendly. And so far I agree! On my final flight from Istanbul to Sulei, I met a woman about my age named Keshang, who within minutes offered … Continue reading More Photos & Tidbits
*Disclaimer - This post has some mild(ish) swearing, especially as this author is writing through some pretty nasty jet-lag* I made it - I'm in Suleimaniah! As I'm severely sleep-deprived, I'm not sure the totality of my situation has hit me, and so things are seeming quite surreal. But despite my jet-lag, moments crash through … Continue reading I’m HERE!