When I meet Kurds and Iraqis in public, there are three questions I am invariably asked. Same order, same wording, same rapidity.1) Are you married?2) Where's your father?3) Where's your brother?And the answers - no, America, America - never make anyone happy. After the third question they always give up and sigh.Once I lied, but … Continue reading The Trifecta
Category: People
Just finished a Thanksgiving at my flat with Arab, Lebanese, Palestinian, Kurdish, American, and Norwegian guests. So much food! And so many different types - people brought what they knew how to cook, which included brinj (Kurdish), hummus (Lebanese), baniya (Palestinian), and Budweiser (American). In order to be culturally ok with everyone, I only invited … Continue reading Thanksgiving
Honestly, who cares about the destination. The journeys are usually much more fabulous. So. Picking up where I left off a while ago: After Kirkuk, we drove on to Arbil. I wanted to see the Arbil citadel, which is supposedly the oldest continually inhabited structure on earth (supposedly), but when we got there it unfortunately … Continue reading EID CONTINUED: The Journey to Dar Mar Matta (St. Matthew’s Monastery)
A scorpion wants to cross a river, and sees a turtle nearby. The scorpion crawls over, and asks the turtle to ferry him across the river on his back. The turtle asks the scorpion, "How will I know that you won't sting me once I've taken you across the river?" The scorpion says, "If you … Continue reading A Story From My Palestinian Friend…
Last Friday, I embarked on my adventure. I had been planning on somehow going alone, by bus and taxi. But this was not to be. I found someone with a car who wanted to road-trip as much as I did. Sam, the head of catering for the school, was my travel buddy this past week. … Continue reading Day 1: Kirkuk
...from EVERYWHERE. Here is what the itinerary turned out to be: Day 1 (Friday): Suli, Chamchamal, Kirkuk, Arbil Day 2 (Saturday): Arbil, almost Mosul, Dar Mar Matta (St. Matthew's Monastery) Day 3 (Sunday): Mar Matta Day 4 (Monday): Mar Matta, Shekhan, Lalish, Al Qosh Day 5 (Tuesday): Al Qosh, Dohok Day 6 (Wednesday): Dohok, Amediya … Continue reading I’m BACK…
On Saturday I went back to Amna Suraka, along with my friend Jin, to see the actual Amna Suraka museum. It was worth it. The Red Security buildings are in a compound, an ex-Baath government compound. Many buildings are hollowed out and pockmarked, but a few have been converted into museum rooms. The tour took … Continue reading Amna Suraka, Pt 2
I haven't been posting so much lately, for two reasons: 1) my internet sucks, 2) I've found people to talk to (yes!) so at the end of the day I don't always feel the need to write. I've talked with them, so I've released most of the things I need to say. Which is great, … Continue reading Quilts Are Made of Patches
The rogue pack of screaming babies in my apartment building should NOT be allowed to cry after school hours. I see enough needless tears during the day. And I can deal with it if I'm getting paid to deal with it. Parents, if you want to pay me to listen to your child throw a tantrum … Continue reading Just…No.
My travels this weekend began to let me start over. I've been clinging to certain travel expectations, which do not serve me well in this culture. I'm starting to erase those expectations from my brain, instead adopting a new way to travel. Expectation: to travel with other English-speakers at the school. Reality: I have to travel … Continue reading Halabja
In Mutual Weirdness 